60s ss15. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/15/90/d0/1590d0bef405cd98ae11041c3d188bcc.jpg [Accessed 12 May 2015].
Alexandra McQueen. (2015). [image] Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/__data/assets/image/0011/252101/new-savage-beauty-banner.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Anon, (2015). [image] Available at: http://www.rededgeimages.com/image/320/t/9320926055.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Anon, (2015). [image] Available at: http://fc08.deviantart.net/fs71/f/2012/252/a/d/tribal_portrait_iii_by_genevieve_amelia-d5e37vj.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Anon, (2015). [online] Available at: http://www.karlapowell.co.uk/post/85513869802/magnum-birthday-magnum-ice-cream-makeup-chocolate-make-u [Accessed 8 May 2015].
Braided Pompadour. (2015). [image] Available at: http://www.savoirflair.com//files/images/news/2014/09/08/backstage-beauty-braided-pompadours-marissa-webb-hair-braids.jpg [Accessed 3 May 2015].
Cindy Sherman. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/236x/75/d0/8b/75d08ba595314fb5ed43bcbe0ae09718.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Givenchy. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/ad/b0/87/adb087e2afe0a1b106b03f09ceeaccf4.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2015].
Hair ss15. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/00/1e/07/001e074395a7a470ad9a95f19bb1432a.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Headpiece. (2015). [image] Available at: http://fc05.deviantart.net/fs70/f/2012/265/4/7/tribal_portrait_vi_by_genevieve_amelia-d5fhv31.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Isabel Marant. (2015). [image] Available at: https://d36di5nvqr47bo.cloudfront.net/photos/10866/44157/isabel-marant-ready-to-wear-spring-summer-2015-paris-10866-looks-20140926-528831/Isabel-Marant-RTW-SS15-Paris-3578-1411748344-thumb.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Kate Mos SS14. (2015). [image] Available at: http://ftape.com/media/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Alexander-McQueen-SS14-Campaign_FTAPE_04.jpg [Accessed 6 May 2015].
Preen SS15. (2015). [image] Available at: http://static1.get-the-look.com.au/articles/6/18/26/@/4475-fake-freckles-backstage-at-preen-during-500x0-2.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2015].
Rihanna Where have you been. (2015). [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBxt_v0WF6Y&list=RDHBxt_v0WF6Y [Accessed 2 May 2015].
SS15. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/6f/7e/f9/6f7ef9164c084df31a5c0e594d01cd81.jpg [Accessed 20 May 2015].
Strandednyc.com, (2014). Marissa Webb SS15 NYFW with TREsemmé | Stranded NYC. [online]
Available at: http://www.strandednyc.com/marissa-webb-ss15-nyfw-tresemme-maybelline/ [Accessed 3 May 2015].
Tolot, A., Tolot, F., Martin, M. and Beyoncé, (n.d.). One woman 100 faces.
tribal fashion. (2015). [image] Available at: http://trendland.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Numero-124-Magazne-Sebastian-Kim-photog.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Tribal headpiece. (2015). [image] Available at: https://img0.etsystatic.com/026/1/8187290/il_340x270.653328842_g6ll.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Tribal headpieces. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/99/59/c0/9959c09a5792f92df871c108c6181093.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Tribal mohawk. (2015). [image] Available at: https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/d1/30/cf/d130cfb679833935e2226077b837874f.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
twiggy. (2015). [image] Available at: http://youqueen.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Twiggy-1960s-style.jpg [Accessed 6 May 2015].
Valentino SS14. (2015). [image] Available at: http://www.ella-lapetiteanglaise.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/Valentino-1.jpg [Accessed 18 May 2015].
Zac Posen SS15. (2015). [image] Available at: http://fashionone.s3.amazonaws.com/blog/2014/10/100314fashionweek1.jpg [Accessed 21 May 2015].
My first year of the HND has been a really great experience.
I have learnt many things, not only technique wise but also about myself and
what I can do.
Reflecting on my makeup skills from the beginning of the
year I have most definitely shown a great improvement both in the way I work and
my application techniques.
I really enjoyed doing Period makeup with Denise this year
and found that it taught me a number of things. A large majority of the makeup
looks for period required a really clean, natural makeup, concentrating on the
skin and base. I found working with different skin types and creating perfect
foundation matches very difficult at the beginning of the term and was not very
confident with choosing colours that I thought would work. As the year has
progressed, practicing on different skin types has enabled me to quickly
recognise the skin condition, tones and colouring in the face in order to
establish what foundation would work best. I was especially happy with my
progress throughout the period lessons and feel I have become stronger in both
lip colour application and bases. My final period assessment went really well
and I was very happy with the final image.
Theatre makeup with Tanya went very quick this year but I
learnt a wide variety of skills that I aim to practise until perfected.
Throughout the term I really struggled with applying eyeliner but after
practising by putting it on and taking it off repeatedly, I am now confident
when applying it. I particularly enjoyed creating my own bald cap in this
lesson as it was something I have never done before and I enjoyed learning
about all the different products I could use. Having the opportunity to see Tanya's
work at Phantom was really inspiring and I felt pleased that I knew the makeup
was something I had the knowledge to recreate myself. I was really happy with
my finished created character for my final piece and was over the moon with my
grades as I felt I had worked really hard and it had paid off.
Fashion makeup with Branka was something that I was firstly
quite nervous about. The attention to detail that is apparent in many fashion
looks was at first quite daunting to me, however I soon realised that with
practise I was able to create similar looks. I found fashion makeup completely
inspiring and really loved how creative it was. Exploring different trends and
creative my own makeup and hair was really fun and I especially enjoyed the
SS15 photoshoot as it enabled me to collaborate with different artists to
create a final piece that we were all proud off. Although it is hard for me to
pick a favourite lesson, I found the lessons in Term 2 really inspiring as we
were allowed to be more creative and experimental in the lessons. I learnt so
many new techniques in Branka’s lessons that I would never have known I could
do. One of my favourites was creating our own face lace which was relatively
simple to do yet so effective.
Having the recent opportunity to work on a fashion show this
year in London was so much fun and I was surprised at how confident I felt about
creating the makeup looks. The experience taught me a number of things about myself
as an artist and I was happy seeing the results of my work. Being organised and
well prepared for the show made me realise how vital it is as a makeup artist.
As I have practised the same organisation skills all year in my lessons, it is
something that I find comes naturally to me now which is really good. The
makeup for the shoot was natural and I felt confident in my abilities to create
the makeup on different models that I had never met. This showed me how much I
have improved during the year and how much my confidence has grown. I
absolutely loved the buzz of the fashion show and worked well under the
pressure and although I did feel tired at the end of the long day, it was a
good tired where I had job satisfaction.
The part of the course that I found the most challenging
this year was the hair lessons. As hair styling is something that I was very
new to at the beginning of the year, I found the lessons extremely frustrating
and developed a ‘can’t do it’ attitude which did not help me to succeed.
However, as the year has progressed and with constant help and advice from
Emma, I have seen a significant improvement in my hairstyling and have been
very happy with the hairstyles I created towards the end of the year. I think
that in order to further my skills in hairstyling, practising looks is the key.
I also think that practising on real hair would benefit me more in order to get
a feel for styling real hair.
The combination of mask making and fashion for our final
assessment was one of the most exciting projects of the whole year. I really
loved taking my tribal research and incorporating it into a fashion look.
Seeing all of my work come together and work beautifully was something I was
really pleased with. I was completely happy with how my assessment went and was
particularly happy with my makeup because I knew that I had worked out of my
comfort zone by creating a graphic eye makeup look and I had succeeded in doing
so.
Using a variety of products this year has helped me to
develop my product knowledge as well as allowing me to work out which products
work better than others. I have learnt what essentials I prefer in my kit which
includes a variety of different brands. Something I have learnt about using
different products is that not all products will have the same effect on
different people. I have also learnt that I will not always like the same
products as other artists but I find that is part of the fun of being an artist
and getting to experiment.
Overall, I have really enjoyed this year and have learnt so
many skills that I aim to develop further to be the best that I can be. I have grown
to learn my strengths and also the weaknesses which I will continue to work on
until they too become strengths. I cannot wait to see what next year will bring
and I aim to work hard over the summer to continue my development.
My final assessment went really well and I was happy to see the makeup and hair come together beautifully. On the day of the assessment I took a laminated mood board that showed my face chart and design inspiration as well as including my products and timings.
Products:
-Flash palette
-Mac face and body
-Mac soft and gentle
-Kryolan bright/neutral eyeshadow palette
-Inglot eyeliner
-Ben Nye eyeshadow palette
-MUA eyebrow gel
-Setting powder
-MAC mascara
-MAC blusher palette
Costume:
-Finished headpiece
-Metal tribal inspired necklace
-Straw to cover wrist tattoos
-White strapless top
I decided to keep my costume simple, with just a strapless white tshirt and tribal gold necklace to go around the neck. As my eye makeup and head piece was quite extravagant, I didn't want to draw attention away from those things so thought a simplistic costume would be efficient. As the model wore a strapless top, I took the MAC face and body foundation onto the body as well for photographic purposes.
Health and Safety:
-Ensure the model is at the correct height in the chair
-Ensure the model does not have an allergies
-Ensure the work space is clean and tidy
-Ensure all equipment is clean and ready to use
NOTE: Put the model in costume before the assessment starts
Timings:
00.00 Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin
00.05 Create the eye makeup including mascara
00.20 Conceal any areas that need it
00.25 Apply foundation to the face and body
00.40 Set the foundation lightly with powder
00.42 Groom the eyebrows and lightly fill
00.45 Contour under the cheekbones
00.50 Apply highlight to the face
00.55 Apply colour to the lips
01.05 Powder under the eyes
01.07 Create the eyeliner under the eye
01.12 Add the white dots to the face and set with powder
01.15 Brush the hair through
01.20 Create a plait at the top to use as an anchor
01.25 Secure the headpiece to the head
01.30 Backcomb the hair all over
01.35 Style the hair and pin back
01.40 Create braids in the hair with straw
01.50 Add final touches
02.00 Finish
Final Images
Evaluation
I was really happy with the final outcome of all my work. I felt that the eyes were balanced and I had created a beautiful look that reflected my research.
Although I was pleased with the final look, I did come across a few problems on the day. My model had forgotten to pluck her eyebrows and it wasn't a case of me just being able to get rid of a few strays. Luckily, the natural and slightly unkempt look was what I wanted to achieve with this look so it fitted in well with the hairstyle and overall look. Another thing that I struggled with was hiding my models hair extensions but I managed to overcome this by applying more backcombing to the root of the hair.
I was especially pleased with my eye makeup for this look and was careful not to add too much product which prevented creasing. On all previous makeup practises, this is something that had happened so I was really pleased that I prevented this on the day. I was pleased with my makeup base and thought that MAC face and body worked beautifully on my models skin. I was happy with my colour matching and thought the skin looked really healthy and natural.
I think that although I wanted my hairstyle to have a slightly messy feel to it, I do think that I could have done better. I really struggled to work around the models hair extensions and felt that this stopped me from achieving my full potential. As an artist, I know that when working on jobs I won't always know the condition of the hair so it is something I will have to adjust quickly too but I did feel a little disheartened with the hair as I felt it could have been better. My headpiece was the main focal point of my hair design for me and I was really pleased with it. The piece secured to the hair completely and did not move while I was styling the hair.
Overall, I'm really pleased with my finished piece but do think that there are areas I could improve on for next time. This was a really exciting project and I loved being able to have the freedom to create and achieve whatever I wanted.
Before my original model dropped out, I had a clear vision of how I wanted the hair to accommodate my head piece. I looked to SS15 for inspiration and the hairstyle at Marissa Webb caught my attention.
Hairstyle at SS15, Marissa Webb
The hairstyles consisted of volume on top of the head and the sides of the hair were plaited towards the back of the head which hair stylist Jeanie Syfu labelled 'the braided pompadour'. This contrast in textures really worked well and I loved the design. I thought that I could easily work this hairstyle into my headpiece as it sits in the middle of the head which would act as the pompadour part. The braiding that I create would run alongside the straw braids that sat at each side of the headpiece, making it a really beautiful and flowing design.
However, after experiencing my original model dropping out of the assessment, I was left with very little time to find a new one. I firstly couldn't find anyone with a darker skin colour which left me feeling disheartened as I knew that I wanted the skintone of my model to reflect the African culture that I had researched. Luckily, I found a model with just over a week to go however I did come across one major complication.
Overcoming problems
My new model had woven in hair extensions that were easily seen once the hair was braided at the sides. Although I did firstly try to cover up the joins with additional hair, I found that it did not work efficiently. I tried adding straw and wefts to cover the areas too but everything I tried just did not work. My models natural hair had previously been broken off which meant there were loads of areas of small bits of hair. I felt slightly panicked about what I could do to ensure the hair extensions were hidden whilst incorporating the SS15 trends into my design.
Looking back at the SS15 trends, I remembered Zac Posen and the two loose plaits that the models wore at the back of their hair. I realised that the only way I would sufficiently hide the extensions was with backcombing so instead of creating braids, I would backcomb the hair and bring it to the back of the head in the same shape seen at Marissa Webb. I would then incorporate loose plaits in the back with added straw to enhance my tribal theme.
Inspiration from Marissa Webb and Zac Posen
Although I felt slightly disheartened that I couldn't achieve the look I had visioned, I was happy that I had a model and it taught me that within this industry, there will be times where my model changes last minute and could possibly have completely different hair to the ones I had planned for but it is my job as a makeup and hair artist to come up with quick solutions to such problems.
Trial hair
I decided to practise the hair styling before the assessment to work out which area to anchor and to practise achieving the right balance on the hair as well s my backcombing which I think has actually improved quite a lot this year.
Health and Safety:
-Ensure the model is seating at the correct height
-Ensure all hair is removed from brushes
-Ensure the workspace is clean and tidy
Method:
-Section the hair down the front using the pintail comb and create a plait to use as an anchor for the headpiece
-Position the headpiece to the head ensuring the front is placed central
-Secure the headpiece to the head using pins and grips ensuring the piece does not move
-Taking small sections, backcomb the root of the hair using the postiche comb to create volume
-Smooth over the top of the hair and bring it all backwards from the side
-Grip the hair into the plait at the back under the head piece
-Spray with hairspray for added security
-Do the same on the other side ensuring each side is balanced
-Bringing hair from the back to the front, create a plait on each side ensuring to plait a piece of straw into the braid.
Creating an anchor
Backcombing the root
Styling the hair
Evaluation:
Creating the hairstyle on my dolly head was not as effective as it would have been on the model. Unfortunately I was unable to practise on her before the shoot but I tried to practise the hair taking into consideration where her extensions would be. The dolly head hair is very different to natural hair because it doesn't move in the same way making it tricky to sometimes work on. I personally think that my design doesn't look that great on the dolly head but I know that the models African hair is different so it will create a different effect and will work with my theme.
The main aim of this hairstyle is to compliment my headpiece and theme and I think this does that. I wanted the back to be kept loose and natural so that the back of the headpiece flowed with the hair. Bringing the hair back away from the face allowed my headpiece to be the prominent feature of the hair design whilst not taking the attention away from my makeup. I think that if I had left the hair down rather than taking it back, the whole makeup and headpiece would have looked quite lost. Adding straw within the plaits adds to the tribal feel of my design although I know that on the day my models hair will be much thicker and I will backcomb it slightly to create texture.
Overall, I am not really pleased with the practise go but know that the concept will work better on the day and will fit well with my theme, makeup and headdress.
Things to remember on the day:
-Backcomb to the root using the postiche brush
-Ensure the grips are corrected anchored into the plait to secure the head piece
-Ensure even balance on each side
My third and final makeup practise went really well and it is here that I worked out my makeup timings for the day of the assessment.
Products:
-Flash palette
-Mac face and body
-Mac blushers
-Mac soft and gentle
-Inglot eyeliner
-MAC mascara
-Ben Nye palette
-MUA eyebrow mascara
-Kryolan brights/neutral eyeshadow palette
-Kryolan blusher palette
-Translucent powder
Health and Safety:
-Ensure all work spaces are tidy and clean
-Ensure the model is positioned at the correct height
-Ensure all equipment is clean and ready to use
Step by step:
-Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin
-Apply white from the flash palette to the eyelid, bringing it into the corner of the eye and winging the colour out
-Apply blue from the flash palette to the crease and above, blending the colour into the white
-Set the white colour using a white eyeshadow from the Kryolan neutral palette
-Set the blue colour using a blue eyeshadow from the Kryolan brights palette
-Blend the two colours together using a lighter blue colour
-Apply inglot gel liner to the upper eye lid, creating a wing
-Apply mascara to the upper lashes using a fan brush
-Conceal any areas that need attention
-Apply MAC face and body to the face and upper body
-Set the foundation lightly
-Groom the brows in the wrong direction, making them messy. Fill in only slightly with the Ben Nye palette (Ensure the colour matches the natural hair colour of the model)
-Contour underneath the cheekbones using MAC harmony, add a grey tone from the Kryolan eyeshadow palette
-Highlight the cheekbones and temples using MAC harmony and a big fan brush
-Blend it with the contour slightly
-Apply brown from the flash palette to the lips using a lip brush
-Powder underneath the eyes
-Apply inglot liner under the eye starting from the middle and dragging a straight line outwards
-Create white dots down the chin ensuring they are central using white from the flash palette and a cotton bud
-Set the dots slightly using setting powder on a cotton bud
The more I practise makeup, the more I am happy with the eye shape and finish. Taking into consideration the last makeup practise that I did, I ensured to use enough product from the flash palette to make the colours pop and I think that from looking at my pictures I have managed to create the right balance. I also made sure I changed the inner corner of the makeup which made a significant difference to the finished look. I was really pleased with how this practise went and noted down the timings of the makeup as well as any information that I thought would be helpful to remember on the day.
NOTES TO REMEMBER:
-After concealing the eye, ensure it is powdered to stop the black eyeliner from moving underneath the eyelid
-Remember to take the face and body foundation onto the neck and shoulders (for photographic purposes)
-Do not use too much/too little of the flash palette, the right balance is key to prevent creasing
-Do not forget to set the white dots with powder
-Go in with additional lip colour once the hair is complete
Overall, I am really looking forward to my assessment and am completely happy that the makeup I created reflects my tribal inspirations whilst linking to current and past makeup trends.
I originally had a model planned who was unable to model last minute so luckily I found some to fill the space. It was really important to me that my model had darker skin in order to fit in with the African tribal theme of my project. My model Adele has beautiful skin and kindly offered to come into the lesson so that I could practise the whole makeup look together.
Products:
-Flash palette
-Mac face and body
-Mac blushers
-Mac soft and gentle
-Inglot eyeliner
-MAC mascara
-Ben Nye palette
-MUA eyebrow mascara
-Kryolan brights/neutral eyeshadow palette
-Kryolan blusher palette
-Translucent powder
Health and Safety:
-Ensure all work spaces are tidy and clean
-Ensure the model is positioned at the correct height
-Ensure all equipment is clean and ready to use
Step by step:
-Cleanse, tone and moisturise the skin
-Apply white from the flash palette to the eyelid, bringing it into the corner of the eye and winging the colour out
-Apply blue from the flash palette to the crease and above, blending the colour into the white
-Set the white colour using a white eyeshadow from the Kryolan neutral palette
-Set the blue colour using a blue eyeshadow from the Kryolan brights palette
-Blend the two colours together using a lighter blue colour
-Apply inglot gel liner to the upper eye lid, creating a wing
-Apply mascara to the upper lashes using a fan brush
-Conceal any areas that need attention
-Apply MAC face and body to the face and upper body
-Set the foundation lightly
-Groom the brows in the wrong direction, making them messy. Fill in only slightly with the Ben Nye palette (Ensure the colour matches the natural hair colour of the model)
-Contour underneath the cheekbones using MAC harmony, add a grey tone from the Kryolan eyeshadow palette
-Highlight the cheekbones and temples using MAC harmony and a big fan brush
-Blend it with the contour slightly
-Apply brown from the flash palette to the lips using a lip brush
-Powder underneath the eyes
-Apply inglot liner under the eye starting from the middle and dragging a straight line outwards
-Create white dots down the chin ensuring they are central using white from the flash palette and a cotton bud
-Set the dots slightly using setting powder on a cotton bud
Evaluation:
I was really happy with my finalised makeup design and think that it reflected everything I had researched whilst taking into consideration that the makeup was both tribal and fashion inspired. Practising the makeup look made me realise what worked and what needs to be improved before my final assessment.
What went well:
I was happy with the dewy skin I created using MAC face and body and think it was the best product to use on my models skin to create the light and dewy coverage I wanted. Using MAC harmony to contour worked well as the colour complimented the skin and lip colour however I did add a slight grey tone from the Kryolan neutral palette to tone down the colour a bit which I think worked really well. Using a mixture of MAC soft and gentle and a Kryolan highlighter worked well to create the healthy skin that I desired for this look. I was pleased that the lip colour worked well with the makeup and didn't over power the eye makeup.
What I need to improve on for my assessment:
Although I was happy with the eye shape I created, towards the inner corner of the eye, I used too much product. For my assessment, I will make sure that the colour towards the inner corner is much more pointed and not as wide as I think it distracted attention away from the eye and made the shape look uneven. Another problem I had when creating this makeup was not being able to make the eye colour as strong as I liked. I think that the reason this happened was because I used too little of the flash palette before applying the shadow so this is something I will consider for next time.
Products that worked well:
The combination of the flash palette and eyeshadows worked really well to create the transitional colouring of my eye makeup. Although I know that I should have used more of the flash palette colours underneath, I think that generally these products work really well together to create an eye popping makeup. Another favourite product of mine for this look was the Inglot gel eyeliner. The consistency of the liner is so creamy that it flows onto the skin beautifully and unlike MAC blacktrack which I find dried too quickly, I love applying liner using this product.
Techniques that worked well:
A technique that I found worked particularly well was using a cotton bud to create the dots on the chin. I was able to apply the colour from the flash palette neatly and go back in to powder with another cotton bud to prevent smudging. Although I originally was going to use the end of a brush, I think that this technique worked better. Another technique I thought was effective was one that Branka had previously showed us. As I am someone who has previously struggled with contouring, Branka showed us how to use a fan brush to lightly build up a contour. This technique worked really well on my model and I was pleased with the result.
Overall, I am really pleased with how this practise went and aim to practise one more time before the assessment to ensure that I am completely happy with the makeup.
After researching tribal themes within makeup, I told Branka my ideas and began to create a makeup based on everything I had looked at. I was struggling to get the initial shape so Branka showed me an idea that I could create. At first I was a bit apprehensive as I felt I wouldn't be able to achieve the same eye makeup she created, but I tried and was really happy with the result.
The eye makeup reflected everything I had researched about 60's and tribal shapes so I was eager to use it in my final design. I loved the transition between the white and the blue and thought it would work well with my headpiece.
Health and Safety:
-Ensure the workspace is tidy
-Ensure the model is at the correct height
-Ensure all equipment is clean and ready to use
Step by step:
-Apply white from the flash palette to the eyelid, bringing it into the corner of the eye and winging the colour out
-Apply blue from the flash palette to the crease and above, blending the colour into the white
-Set the white colour using a white eyeshadow from the Kryolan neutral palette
-Set the blue colour using a blue eyeshadow from the Kryolan brights palette
-Blend the two colours together using a lighter blue colour
-Apply inglot gel liner to the upper eye lid, creating a wing
-Apply inglot gel liner under the bottom eyelid, dragging the colour out into a straight line
-Chose a colour that matches the natural hair colour of the model and fill in the brows using eyeshadow from the Ben Nye palette
I was really happy with the eye design that we created and think that it will work well within my tribal theme. I found blending the colours slightly difficult and found that the eyes creased still after I had applied the eyeshadow. To prevent this happening, I will make sure not to use too much of the greasepaint as I think this is what caused the problem and not because I had not powdered enough. I think that the shape I created flowed really well and was quite symmetrical to Branka's so I was overall, pretty pleased with this practise. The black eyeliner on the upper eyelid and under the bottom eyelid really helped to define the eye makeup. Although I feel slightly nervous about creating the perfect line under the eye on the day and getting it symmetrical on both sides, I know this is something that will help finish off my makeup beautifully.
For my fashion makeup, I wanted to push myself and create a really beautiful makeup that had a graphic eye to compliment the headpiece that I was going to create.
Rough sketch of my makeup idea
Eyes
As I chose blue as the colour of my tribe, the first makeup idea that I thought of was the classic 1960's Twiggy blue and white eye makeup with graphic eyeliner in the crease. I had ideas of elongating the eye makeup to fit in with the tribal theme and using a mixture of blue and white to contrast the skintone of my model.
SS15 Makeup trends
Blue coloured eye makeup was a big trend in the catwalks of SS15. Although the makeup techniques varied across the brands with stick on eyeliners/blue eyelids/electric blue eyeliners in the waterline etc, it was obvious that the colour was a popular choice among brands. The brands that incorporated the blue eye makeup into their makeup design included Elie Saab, Holly Fulton, Fendi and J. JS Lee.
A favourite for me was the blue eye makeup at Elie Saab which was created by talented makeup artist Tom Pecheux using a variety of MAC products. Tom used MAC eyeshadows in Freshwater and Steamy as well as MAC chromatic pencils in hi-def Cyan and Blooz eye kohl. Taking inspiration from tropical holiday destinations, Tom created this youthful look by layering the colours to create an eye popping look.
What I love about this makeup is just how strong the eye colour is. The rest of the makeup is kept simple with a nude lip and a clean base, allowing the eye makeup to be the prominent feature. This is something that I will be taking into my makeup design as I want my eye makeup to also be the main focal point.
Although Tom Pecheux used MAC products to create this look, it is not uncommon for artist to use alternative products. If I were to recreate this look, I would use a small amount of blue from the Makeup Forever Flash palette and use an angle brush to create the feline eyeliner shape. I would then set the colour with a stronger blue eye shadow from the Kryolan brights palette. I think this would be just as effective as the products Tom used and would definitely work well.
Left: Makeup at Elie Saab Right: Classic 1960s Makeup (Model:Twiggy)
The makeup created at Elie Saab shows a strong link to the classic 1960's makeup look although it is not suggested by the designers that inspiration came from that era. The blue colour of the eye and peach toned lips are very similar to the 60s makeup trend which allows me to link the two together.
The 60's makeup trend was also a trending look at SS15 with brands such as Rochas, Orla Kiely and Nanette Lepore creating a more obvious 60s statement with big lashes, blue eyeshadow and white eyeliners. Although I have taken aspects of the 60s makeup into my design, I have adapted the colours and shape to look more tribal. An eye makeup shape that really stood out for me on the SS15 runways was the eye makeup at Givenchy by legendary artist Pat McGrath. I really loved the statement eye which complimented the bleached brows and I think that the shape she created is ideal for my tribal themed look so I will be incorporating it into my design.
Makeup at Givenchy by Pat McGrath
Skin
Due to the fact the eye makeup is the prominent feature of my design, I wanted to keep the rest of the makeup simple with a dewy, slightly highlighted skin that looked healthy and natural. (noting that tribes people would not be caked in makeup) My model has naturally beautiful skin that I want to enhance and I also want to ensure that the coverage of the foundation is a light coverage so that her natural freckles can still be seen in the makeup. For this idea, I took inspiration again from SS15 which had a variety of natural and no makeup looks (Marc Jacobs) as well as a faux freckle look seen at Preen.
Dewy skin and faux freckles at Preen
Brands that showed a dewy, natural makeup look included Amanda Wakely, Zac Posen, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang. My favourite natural look throughout SS15 was definitely the faux freckle look from Preen at London fashion week. The complexion of the models was dewy and fresh which was complimented by an array of faux freckles created by legendary makeup artist Val Garland. A variety of MAC eye pencils were used to create the freckles on the face whilst a brush flicking technique dipped in St Tropez was used to create natural looking freckles on the body. I really love this inventive technique and although I do not need to create freckles for my look, it is a useful technique to know.
Although I am yet to practise the makeup, using my product knowledge, I am quite certain that MAC face and body will be a good foundation choice to create the dewy skin that I want to achieve. Although face and body can be built up, I think that the coverage of the foundation is just enough to allow the freckles to be seen through the makeup whilst ensuring the skintone is even and fresh looking.
Lips
Choosing a lip colour to compliment a blue eye colour which also compliments a darker skintone is actually quite challenging. After considering many colours such as a deep purple, various pinks and reds, I thought about more natural colours that I could link to my African tribal theme. I read that many tribes people use natural products to use as body and face paint and it gave me an idea.
I thought back to an editorial campaign I saw by Makeup Artist Karla Powell for the ice cream brand Magnum. The adjacent models wore a bold lip and eyeliner which contrasted with the models skin colour but was similar to the opposite models. Although the idea behind the editorial was that the makeup was supposed to resemble the Magnum ice creams, I can remember seeing this image and thinking that the brown lipstick reminded me more of mud and not chocolate.
Remembering this editorial, I decided that a brown coloured lip colour could actually work really well with the eye makeup and skin and the earthy tone would symbolise the lifestyle and skin decoration of the African tribes people. In the Makeup Forever flash palette, there is a beautiful brown colour that I think will work well on my model as a lip colour, so I will be trying this look to see if it works.
I really love this editorial campaign because I think the colour contrast is really beautiful. The white eyeliner is really strong against the black skin and works really well. Karla used Illamasqua Precision ink for the eyeliner colour. A product that I think would work really well is the Inglot white liner as the pigment is really strong on darker skintones. Although I do like the makeup in this editorial, it is clear that the image has been heavily edited so it is unclear to see the true coverage of the makeup.
Photo from Karla Powell's editorial campaign for Magnum
Eyebrows
I want the eyebrows in my makeup to look almost unkempt, taking inspiration from the tribal themed music video 'Where have you been' that shows Rihanna's eyebrows looking wild. To create this look I will ensure the eyebrows are only lightly groomed with a small amount of colour in them. My reason for this is due to the fact tribes peoples hair flows naturally and has no uniformity. I don't want to distract the attention away from my graphic eye makeup and think that from experimenting, a more defined eyebrow does just that.
Spots
For my tribal inspired look, I want to add white dots in a line on the chin to reflect the African tribes that I had researched. African tribes people cover themselves with dots for decoration and to warn off enemy tribes however due to the fact this is a fashion makeup look, I think adding just three dots will be sufficient enough to create a reference, whilst conforming to the simplistic ways of many fashion makeup looks.
To get our creative ideas flowing, Branka showed us how to create false eyebrows that we could adhere to the face, using a variety of materials. After showing us how to create the pieces, she then asked us to create our own based on the theme we had picked.
Products:
-Liquid latex
-Assortment of feathers
-Sequins
-Wig lace
Step by step:
-Cut out an eyebrow shape in the wig lace
-Begin to build up the brow by applying individual feathers to the wig lace which have been dipped in liquid latex
-Add sequins where desired to create an edgy, tribal eyebrow
My created eyebrow
Evaluation:
I really loved this lesson because I didn't know that the technique to create these eyebrows was so simple. I loved the creative aspect of the lesson and being able to just have free reign with my design was something that was really fun. I added an array of natural looking feathers to my eyebrow design in keeping with the tribal theme. I also added some golden coloured sequins which worked as a nice contrast. I really loved learning this technique and look forward to experimenting with different materials in future to create some beautiful designs.
Products/tools
-Buckram
-Pins
-Hot glue gun
-Pins
-Cling film
-Pintail comb
-Polystyrene head
-Assortment of feathers
-Straw
Health and Safety
-Ensure to be careful when using the hot glue gun as the glue is very hot and can burn the skin
-Ensure the polystyrene head is wrapped in cling film to prevent burning the head Step by step
-Firstly, draw a circle shape in a piece of buckram using tailors chalk.
-Cut out the circle and rinse it under warm water until it becomes tacky.
-Mould the circle around the top of a polystyrene head ensuring to smooth out edges and pin into place.
-Allow to dry overnight.
-Cut a strip out of buckram for the Zebra mane and rinse under warm water.
-Mould the top to the middle of the head and pin into place.
-Sellotape the end of the strip to the table to keep it straight whilst it dries. (See images for reference)
-Once dry, take the strip off the head and begin to create holes in a V shape down the length of the mane for the feathers.
-Pin the strip to the top of the head and stick the feathers through the holes gluing into place with the hot glue gun.
-Start with the blue feathers at the front of the head and work in a pattern of black/white/black/white to create the zebra mane effect.
-Once the glue has fully dried, glue the strip to the circular buckram leaving gaps for the hair grips to stick in. (this will ensure the headpiece is extra sturdy)
-Cut off the excess buckram around the strip.
-Secure the headpiece to the polystyrene head.
-Take some straw and create a long plait with excess straw at each end.
-Glue the plait around the headpiece to hide the base of the glued feathers.
-Once dry, add additional piece of straw to each side of the headpiece and the back, to build up the volume.
-Allow to dry fully.
Cap made from buckram
Mane made from buckram
Gluing the feathers
The finished headpiece
Evaluation:
I was really happy with my finished headpiece and think it reflected both my tribal research and fashion research on headpieces. Taking inspiration from Alexander McQueen's Savage Beauty Exhibition really inspired me to create a feathered headdress. This is the first headpiece I have ever created so I was really happy with the final result.
The head piece was relatively easy to make after I had established how I could construct it. I didn't struggle with any aspect of putting the headpiece together because I think that I had planned the construction very well with some help and input from Emma and Clare. The piece was very time consuming to create because I had to ensure each feather was fully glued and dried before moving onto the next one but it was well worth it when I saw the finished result. At first I was going to stick feathers to the piece in larger groups but I am pleased that I decided to stick them individually as it really helped to create the volume that I wanted. Adding the straw detail around the base of the buckram really helped to finish off the piece and I was especially happy with how I built up the straw gradually at the sides and back.
I honestly do not think that I would change anything about this piece and I was completely pleased with the finished result. Although I don't think I could improve it in any way as it looked better than I ever imagined, I think that in future I just need to continue developing my skills in order to create even better pieces in future. If I was going to be extra critical, I probably could have benefitted from using less glue when gluing the mane to the buckram base as I did find it slightly hard to get pins through the piece for the assessment but that is my only criticism.
Overall, I am really happy with my final piece and think that it worked really well with the makeup and hair that I created.
To try and find inspiration for my fashion hair and makeup look, I turned to music videos, books, magazines and the internet for inspiration. It wasn't difficult for me to soon realise that the tribal theme has inspired many different varieties of work across artists of different fields.
In Music
The first music video that I thought of with a strong tribal theme was Rihanna's 'Where have you been' video from album 'Talk that talk'. The video references many different cultures and is not primarily themed around tribes. A clear reference to the Hindu god Shiva is seen showing a variety of influences, however it does have strong tribal references throughout the video.
During the video, a number of African tribal references can be seen. During the first chorus, Rihanna can been seen dancing in what appears to be a dessert surrounded by men who are clearly identified as tribesmen. The men are shirtless and have various materials wrapped around their waists. This indicates the tribal theme as in many tribes, the people clothe themselves in anything that they can find.
During the dance routine, Rihanna and the men are seen dancing around the fire. In many African tribes, rituals an ceremonies include fire dancing so this is a strong link to the tribal theme. As well as this, a large tribal tattoo can be seen on the back of one of the male dancers. Tribal tattooing can be traced to ancient African times where both men and women would have their bodies tattooed to represent their tribes as well as for a number of other symbolic reasons so this is also a strong link.
What I loved about an aspect of this video was that Rihanna was wearing a Zebra print top during the first dancing scene. As I have chosen the zebra as one of the themes for my work, I was really pleased to see this reference in the video. Zebra's originate from Africa so from seeing this in the video, it only furthers my theory of the African tribal references made in the video.
The last tribal indication that I saw in the video was a scene shot in what appears to be an African hut. In the background, African inspired art can be seen on the walls. I know it is African because of the shape, wooden material and spotted decoration. (which I have also included in my makeup look) As well as this, the zebra print can be seen again, this time in the shape of a rug on the floor, however the reference is still there. Rihanna's appearance in this scene is different, with her natural African hair loose and purposely wild appearing eyebrows. I think that this references the wild animals of Africa and although this is not made clear, her hair reminds me of a lions mane and how it runs free and is not controlled.
Overall, this video shows a number of African tribal references and has given me inspiration for my design. What I love about the video is that due to my research I was able to easily identify which parts had strong tribal themes.
In magazines/On the runway
Whilst looking through April 2015's edition of Harper's Bazaar, I was lucky enough to stumble across a short style article on Isabel Marant's SS15 collection which was inspired by West African culture.
Harper's Bazaaar, April 2015
What is interesting about the article is that it shows Isabel's moodboard for the SS15 fashion looks which includes many tribal inspired objects such as shells, feathers, Aztec prints, images of men decorated with straw etc. (which I am including in my headpiece)
Her clothes designs for the SS15 show included many African style prints. The colours used in the collection were quite earth toned, linking them to the natural life of African tribes people, and in particular, there were some colours that I found reminded me of a particular tribe in Africa who would cover their skin in red earth to protect them from the sun. As you can see below, the colours are very similar which allows me to create a connection between the two.
Tribal print, SS15
Similar colours were used in Marant's clothes design
Looking back through previous fashion shows, I remember that SS14 saw a variety of tribal inspired fashion with designers such as Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Givenchy all inspired by African and South American tribes.
At Valentino, the beautiful dresses showed clear South American tribal influences with Aztec prints and fringing dominating a large part of the show. What is clear about the tribal fashion trend is that it influenced many fashion companies to replicate this trend with fringed bags, chunky golden jewellery and Aztec printed clothing proving to be very popular across fashion stores during the summer of 2014.
Valentino, SS14
Editorials
Alexander McQueen's SS14 collection showed a tribal warrior theme. The image below is from the SS14 editorial campaign and portrays model Kate Moss in a tribal inspired outfit. In the background, tribal masks can be seen given a clear indication as to where the inspiration came from at Alexander McQueen. Kate is wearing an outfit that looks as though it is constructed from woven straw. From my own knowledge, I know that in certain tribes, straw and cotton is woven to create clothing and straw is also used on its own to create skirts and head dresses to scare off other tribes so this is a clear connection. The voodoo doll of Kate Moss that she is holding references different tribes and their rituals as in West Africa, Voodoo is the main source of religion for some people. Like many other tribal references, feathers can be seen as a source of decoration in this campaign. As I have previously mentioned, feathers are used in tribes to decorate the body and clothing.
Art by Artist Cindy Sherman
I really love the above campaign picture from Alexander McQueen. Kate Moss is almost unrecognisable with bright yellow hair that works well with the red colour of the outfit and blue background colour. The bright hair colour reminds me of some of the work created by eccentric artist Cindy Sherman. The makeup look in this editorial is dewy and omits a healthy glow which is something that I most definitely want to include in my design. The highlight around the eyes and cheek area works well to highlight the face and I really love the gold undertones of the makeup which compliment the jewellery that Kate Moss wears. The actual outfit that Kate wears is inspiring when it comes to designing my own look. I want to include straw in my headpiece design and seeing this image has inspired me to consider how I can manipulate the straw into a fashion item.
In books
What I have learnt about fashion is that you can link any theme to fashion by the clothes, makeup and hairstyles portrayed. Whilst looking through a book by makeup artist Francesca Tolot named 'One woman, 100 faces' I found tribal inspiration in a number of images.
Although each image is very different, they all show tribal influences even if it wasn't the intention of the artist. Something I noticed whilst looking through the varied makeup designs is that most makeup looks are very simplistic yet strong at the same time. This is something I want to remember when creating my own makeup design as I think that sometimes I can overcomplicate a look and I don't want my makeup to look too busy. Making the eyes the main focal point like a variety of these looks is definitely something I want to focus on.
My favourite image out of the above looks is the leopard print image. (third across) The eye makeup is simple yet stunning and the colours of the eyeshadow and lashes compliment the leopard print material really well. I really love how the eyelashes have been incorporated into this look and love how they have been attached the opposite way round. As a rule, using eyelashes on the outer corner of the eye helps to open the eye up so this technique works to draw in the attention of the eye which I think is very clever and beautifully done. A glossy, nude lip finished this look and works well to ensure the eyes are the main focal point of the makeup.
From exploring different resources, I have realised that I am able to find inspiration in anything and should never just rely on the internet to find ideas. I'm really looking forward to creating my tribal inspired fashion hair and makeup and will be taking into consideration all of the things I have found out.
As this was our final project, I wanted to go all out and create a headpiece that I could incorporate a hairstyle into. I explored different African tribes and discovered that the people often create their own headpieces to scare off enemy tribes and to wear during special rituals/ceremonies. These headpieces are made of various natural materials such as flowers, feathers, shells etc and compliment the beautiful body art that decorates the tribes people.
To get my ideas flowing, I decided to research the head pieces created by African tribes people as well as tribal inspired headpieces that had previously been used in fashion shoots.
As you can see from my mood board, there are an array of different designs that incorporate the tribal theme. The tribal theme is easily identified in all of the images due to the natural materials used in the head piece. One common feature of all of the headpieces is the feathers that are used. Feathers are an organic material that would be easily accessible to tribes people. The feathers symbolise nature and birds and how the different tribes people live in such close proximity to these things.
The above image is one that really inspired me. The tribal theme of this look is easily identifiable with the feathered head piece, metal earrings and war paint inspired makeup. The hairstyle underneath the hair piece is simple, yet effective with just a few braids in the hair which are braided away from the face into the rest of the hair. The headpiece is not overpowering and draws the attention of the audience. The simplicity of the makeup works really well with the white colour on the face and is complimented with the white colouring in the feathers. I love the nude lips and natural eyebrows in this look as it allows the headpiece and makeup to be the main focal point. The natural brow look was a big trend in the SS15 fashion weeks with brands such as Dior and Gucci choosing to opt for more natural, groomed eyebrows.
Alexandra McQueen: Savage Beauty at the V&A
I found further inspiration for my head piece at the Victoria and Albert Museum. The college arranged for us to see the late Alexander McQueen's fashion exhibition 'Savage Beauty' and I can honestly say it was one of the most breathtaking and inspiring exhibitions I have ever been to. Each room had a completely different atmosphere and I felt overwhelmed with how beautiful each piece was.
Work by Alexander McQueen
Work by Alexander McQueen
Work by Alexander McQueen
The above work by Alexander McQueen can be interpreted as Tribal themed due to its animal and natural themes. The dark colours in the pieces convey the look of realistic, natural materials which is something that tribes people use to create their own clothing.
The use of feathers in headpieces can also be seen in Alexander's work above, like the previous tribal headpieces I researched. What I love about Alexander's pieces is how the feathers are shaped into wings and also how they sit off the head as if they could fly away at any moment. I really love the suggested movement in the design and am considering incorporating this clever notion into my headpiece. The piece with the nest and the eggs is very suggestive and effective and I love the different textures in the piece.
