For my fashion makeup, I wanted to push myself and create a really beautiful makeup that had a graphic eye to compliment the headpiece that I was going to create.
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| Rough sketch of my makeup idea |
Eyes
As I chose blue as the colour of my tribe, the first makeup idea that I thought of was the classic 1960's Twiggy blue and white eye makeup with graphic eyeliner in the crease. I had ideas of elongating the eye makeup to fit in with the tribal theme and using a mixture of blue and white to contrast the skintone of my model.
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| SS15 Makeup trends |
Blue coloured eye makeup was a big trend in the catwalks of SS15. Although the makeup techniques varied across the brands with stick on eyeliners/blue eyelids/electric blue eyeliners in the waterline etc, it was obvious that the colour was a popular choice among brands. The brands that incorporated the blue eye makeup into their makeup design included Elie Saab, Holly Fulton, Fendi and J. JS Lee.
A favourite for me was the blue eye makeup at Elie Saab which was created by talented makeup artist Tom Pecheux using a variety of MAC products. Tom used MAC eyeshadows in Freshwater and Steamy as well as MAC chromatic pencils in hi-def Cyan and Blooz eye kohl. Taking inspiration from tropical holiday destinations, Tom created this youthful look by layering the colours to create an eye popping look.
What I love about this makeup is just how strong the eye colour is. The rest of the makeup is kept simple with a nude lip and a clean base, allowing the eye makeup to be the prominent feature. This is something that I will be taking into my makeup design as I want my eye makeup to also be the main focal point.
Although Tom Pecheux used MAC products to create this look, it is not uncommon for artist to use alternative products. If I were to recreate this look, I would use a small amount of blue from the Makeup Forever Flash palette and use an angle brush to create the feline eyeliner shape. I would then set the colour with a stronger blue eye shadow from the Kryolan brights palette. I think this would be just as effective as the products Tom used and would definitely work well.
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| Left: Makeup at Elie Saab Right: Classic 1960s Makeup (Model:Twiggy) |
The makeup created at Elie Saab shows a strong link to the classic 1960's makeup look although it is not suggested by the designers that inspiration came from that era. The blue colour of the eye and peach toned lips are very similar to the 60s makeup trend which allows me to link the two together.
The 60's makeup trend was also a trending look at SS15 with brands such as Rochas, Orla Kiely and Nanette Lepore creating a more obvious 60s statement with big lashes, blue eyeshadow and white eyeliners. Although I have taken aspects of the 60s makeup into my design, I have adapted the colours and shape to look more tribal. An eye makeup shape that really stood out for me on the SS15 runways was the eye makeup at Givenchy by legendary artist Pat McGrath. I really loved the statement eye which complimented the bleached brows and I think that the shape she created is ideal for my tribal themed look so I will be incorporating it into my design.
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| Makeup at Givenchy by Pat McGrath |
Skin
Due to the fact the eye makeup is the prominent feature of my design, I wanted to keep the rest of the makeup simple with a dewy, slightly highlighted skin that looked healthy and natural. (noting that tribes people would not be caked in makeup) My model has naturally beautiful skin that I want to enhance and I also want to ensure that the coverage of the foundation is a light coverage so that her natural freckles can still be seen in the makeup. For this idea, I took inspiration again from SS15 which had a variety of natural and no makeup looks (Marc Jacobs) as well as a faux freckle look seen at Preen.
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| Dewy skin and faux freckles at Preen |
Brands that showed a dewy, natural makeup look included Amanda Wakely, Zac Posen, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Alexander Wang. My favourite natural look throughout SS15 was definitely the faux freckle look from Preen at London fashion week. The complexion of the models was dewy and fresh which was complimented by an array of faux freckles created by legendary makeup artist Val Garland. A variety of MAC eye pencils were used to create the freckles on the face whilst a brush flicking technique dipped in St Tropez was used to create natural looking freckles on the body. I really love this inventive technique and although I do not need to create freckles for my look, it is a useful technique to know.
Although I am yet to practise the makeup, using my product knowledge, I am quite certain that MAC face and body will be a good foundation choice to create the dewy skin that I want to achieve. Although face and body can be built up, I think that the coverage of the foundation is just enough to allow the freckles to be seen through the makeup whilst ensuring the skintone is even and fresh looking.
Lips
Choosing a lip colour to compliment a blue eye colour which also compliments a darker skintone is actually quite challenging. After considering many colours such as a deep purple, various pinks and reds, I thought about more natural colours that I could link to my African tribal theme. I read that many tribes people use natural products to use as body and face paint and it gave me an idea.
I thought back to an editorial campaign I saw by Makeup Artist Karla Powell for the ice cream brand Magnum. The adjacent models wore a bold lip and eyeliner which contrasted with the models skin colour but was similar to the opposite models. Although the idea behind the editorial was that the makeup was supposed to resemble the Magnum ice creams, I can remember seeing this image and thinking that the brown lipstick reminded me more of mud and not chocolate.
Remembering this editorial, I decided that a brown coloured lip colour could actually work really well with the eye makeup and skin and the earthy tone would symbolise the lifestyle and skin decoration of the African tribes people. In the Makeup Forever flash palette, there is a beautiful brown colour that I think will work well on my model as a lip colour, so I will be trying this look to see if it works.
I really love this editorial campaign because I think the colour contrast is really beautiful. The white eyeliner is really strong against the black skin and works really well. Karla used Illamasqua Precision ink for the eyeliner colour. A product that I think would work really well is the Inglot white liner as the pigment is really strong on darker skintones. Although I do like the makeup in this editorial, it is clear that the image has been heavily edited so it is unclear to see the true coverage of the makeup.
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| Photo from Karla Powell's editorial campaign for Magnum |
Eyebrows
I want the eyebrows in my makeup to look almost unkempt, taking inspiration from the tribal themed music video 'Where have you been' that shows Rihanna's eyebrows looking wild. To create this look I will ensure the eyebrows are only lightly groomed with a small amount of colour in them. My reason for this is due to the fact tribes peoples hair flows naturally and has no uniformity. I don't want to distract the attention away from my graphic eye makeup and think that from experimenting, a more defined eyebrow does just that.
Spots
For my tribal inspired look, I want to add white dots in a line on the chin to reflect the African tribes that I had researched. African tribes people cover themselves with dots for decoration and to warn off enemy tribes however due to the fact this is a fashion makeup look, I think adding just three dots will be sufficient enough to create a reference, whilst conforming to the simplistic ways of many fashion makeup looks.
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