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| Hairstyle at SS15, Marissa Webb |
The hairstyles consisted of volume on top of the head and the sides of the hair were plaited towards the back of the head which hair stylist Jeanie Syfu labelled 'the braided pompadour'. This contrast in textures really worked well and I loved the design. I thought that I could easily work this hairstyle into my headpiece as it sits in the middle of the head which would act as the pompadour part. The braiding that I create would run alongside the straw braids that sat at each side of the headpiece, making it a really beautiful and flowing design.
However, after experiencing my original model dropping out of the assessment, I was left with very little time to find a new one. I firstly couldn't find anyone with a darker skin colour which left me feeling disheartened as I knew that I wanted the skintone of my model to reflect the African culture that I had researched. Luckily, I found a model with just over a week to go however I did come across one major complication.
Overcoming problems
My new model had woven in hair extensions that were easily seen once the hair was braided at the sides. Although I did firstly try to cover up the joins with additional hair, I found that it did not work efficiently. I tried adding straw and wefts to cover the areas too but everything I tried just did not work. My models natural hair had previously been broken off which meant there were loads of areas of small bits of hair. I felt slightly panicked about what I could do to ensure the hair extensions were hidden whilst incorporating the SS15 trends into my design.
Looking back at the SS15 trends, I remembered Zac Posen and the two loose plaits that the models wore at the back of their hair. I realised that the only way I would sufficiently hide the extensions was with backcombing so instead of creating braids, I would backcomb the hair and bring it to the back of the head in the same shape seen at Marissa Webb. I would then incorporate loose plaits in the back with added straw to enhance my tribal theme.
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| Inspiration from Marissa Webb and Zac Posen |
Although I felt slightly disheartened that I couldn't achieve the look I had visioned, I was happy that I had a model and it taught me that within this industry, there will be times where my model changes last minute and could possibly have completely different hair to the ones I had planned for but it is my job as a makeup and hair artist to come up with quick solutions to such problems.
Trial hair
I decided to practise the hair styling before the assessment to work out which area to anchor and to practise achieving the right balance on the hair as well s my backcombing which I think has actually improved quite a lot this year.
Products:
-Pin box
-Headpiece
-Hairbands
-Hairspray
-Straw
-Postiche brush
-Tail comb
Health and Safety:
-Ensure the model is seating at the correct height
-Ensure all hair is removed from brushes
-Ensure the workspace is clean and tidy
Method:
-Section the hair down the front using the pintail comb and create a plait to use as an anchor for the headpiece
-Position the headpiece to the head ensuring the front is placed central
-Secure the headpiece to the head using pins and grips ensuring the piece does not move
-Taking small sections, backcomb the root of the hair using the postiche comb to create volume
-Smooth over the top of the hair and bring it all backwards from the side
-Grip the hair into the plait at the back under the head piece
-Spray with hairspray for added security
-Do the same on the other side ensuring each side is balanced
-Bringing hair from the back to the front, create a plait on each side ensuring to plait a piece of straw into the braid.
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| Creating an anchor |
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| Backcombing the root |
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| Styling the hair |
Creating the hairstyle on my dolly head was not as effective as it would have been on the model. Unfortunately I was unable to practise on her before the shoot but I tried to practise the hair taking into consideration where her extensions would be. The dolly head hair is very different to natural hair because it doesn't move in the same way making it tricky to sometimes work on. I personally think that my design doesn't look that great on the dolly head but I know that the models African hair is different so it will create a different effect and will work with my theme.
The main aim of this hairstyle is to compliment my headpiece and theme and I think this does that. I wanted the back to be kept loose and natural so that the back of the headpiece flowed with the hair. Bringing the hair back away from the face allowed my headpiece to be the prominent feature of the hair design whilst not taking the attention away from my makeup. I think that if I had left the hair down rather than taking it back, the whole makeup and headpiece would have looked quite lost. Adding straw within the plaits adds to the tribal feel of my design although I know that on the day my models hair will be much thicker and I will backcomb it slightly to create texture.
Overall, I am not really pleased with the practise go but know that the concept will work better on the day and will fit well with my theme, makeup and headdress.
Things to remember on the day:
-Backcomb to the root using the postiche brush
-Ensure the grips are corrected anchored into the plait to secure the head piece
-Ensure even balance on each side
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