For this lesson, we took the original contrasting colours lesson further by creating an overall look and incorporating the cheekbone and eyeliner into the look. Branka showed us how to use greasepaints on the face in order to act as a base for the eyeshadow colours, just as we had learnt in the previous lesson on the eyes.
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| Branka's demonstration |
I really love this look that Branka created. The colours contrast well and I love how the eyeliner really helps to both separate the block colours and also enhance the colour. I particularly like the blue liner under the eye and think it really pops out especially with the black liner detail underneath. This look is really creative and reminds me a lot of pop art.
Products/Equipment used:
-MAC mascara
-Le Maquillage foundation palettes
-Inglot eyeshadow palette
-Kryolan neutral eyeshadow palette
-Kryolan clown white
-Gown
-Aquacolour
-MAC translucent powder
-Brushes
-Cotton buds/cotton pads
Step by step:
-Create a foundation colour that matches the natural skintone of the model using the Le Maquillage foundation palettes and feather onto the skin using a foundation brush. Be quite sheer with the application, add makeup mixer if foundations seems too thick.
-Using a crème product (I used the Le Maquillage palettes) choose a contour colour that is around 6 shades darker than the models natural skin tone and apply to the face in areas that need contour. (under the cheekbone, temple, top of the forehead, jawline)
-Apply clown white to the areas where the natural highlight would be and press the colour into the skin using a buffer brush. (cheekbone, bridge of the nose, chin,)
-Using a clean buffer brush, set the foundation lightly with translucent powder.
-Apply clown white to the eyelid and create a winged eyeliner.
-Brush any excess product away using a clean eyeshadow brush to prevent creases.
-Choose a colour from the Inglot eyeshadow palette, tap away any excess and dab the colour onto half of the eyelid.
-Flip the brush onto the clean side, chose a different colour from the Inglot eyeshadow palette and apply it to the other half of the eyelid, working it slightly over the other colour.
-Flip the brush back over and use this on the eyelid to get the two colours to merge together.
-Wipe away any excess colour particles with translucent powder and a powder brush.
-Taking a beige colour from the Kryolan neutral palette, blend the coloured edges of the eye makeup in order to soften it.
-Taking a smaller brush, add colour to below the eyebrow, bringing it in towards the bridge of the nose and out towards the winged eyeliner, creating and S shape.
-Apply clown white under the waterline, joining it to the top eyeliner.
-Using an angled brush, apply a different coloured eyeshadow to the clown white, blending it out.
-Using a fan brush and the MAC mascara, apply mascara to the top and bottom lashes, being careful not to hit the eyeshadow.
-Apply clown white onto the cheekbone under the eyeliner, removing any excess.
-Choosing a bright colour, (not blue or green as it will not create the same effect) feather it onto the cheek, pressing the brush onto the face and flicking it away to create a softer edge.
-Choose a different colour for the other half of the cheek and blend it the same way, making sure the two colours blend together.
-Use translucent powder to blend and soften edges if needed by taking a small brush and lightly feathering the edges of the coloured powder.
-Create a nude lip colour using the Le Maquillage foundations and then apply an eyeshadow colour to the lip.
-Using black aquacolour, create lines on the edges of the colours to accentuate them, including a winged eyeliner on the upper eyelid.
-Finish by creating lines on the lips, avoiding going above the lipline. (This will look like a moustache)
Evaluation
What went well:
I really enjoyed this creative makeup and liked experimenting with contrasting colours using a variety of different branded eyeshadows. Using the white greasepaint as a base is very effective and enables the pigments of the colours to really stand out. I think that I chose colours that contrasted well and especially think the yellow eyeshadow colour from the Inglot palette looked good on both the eyelid and underneath the eye. I really enjoyed experiementing with the blending technique that Branka showed us using different sides of the brush as I think it was effective in merging the two colours together. I also liked the fact that this technique saved using another brush as I do think that sometimes I use too many brushes and this was more efficient. Using the black aqua colour to create lines worked well to frame the colour and make it stand out. I have been practising eyeliner techniques as this is something that I find challenging and time consuming and I think that the liner I applied was overall very neat and defined, minus a few lines that were more difficult to place.
What I found difficult:
Although overall, I was really pleased with my makeup application, there are things that I found difficult. I found it hard to apply the colour to the cheeks and found that the outcome was quite patchy. After looking back and reflecting on my work, I think the reason for this was because I didn't create an even base of white greasepaint and I could have blended it further onto the cheek before stippling the colour on. I also think that I needed to build up more colour as the white is still slightly visable and I could have brought the colour out further at the edges, blending it into the skin. Time management was something that I found difficult for this look as I was unable to finish the lips and cheek so in future I aim to work faster. I found applying the black liner to the cheek particularly difficult because of it's natural curve and this is clearly visible in the photo's. The line on the cheek was not intended to be so thick but as I struggled to keep a steady hand, I made the line thicker to try and correct it.
What I could improve on:
There are things that I could definately improve on for this look. Although I really liked my colour choice, I do think that the green and blue eyeshadows blended into each other. This is because on the colour wheel, the colours sit directly next to each other and the green I chose was blue toned so instead of the colours clashing like desired, they merged. However, overall I think that they worked well with the yellow and pink that I chose. Another thing I think I could definately improve on is my highlighting and shading techniques. For this look, Branka wanted a strong highlight and contour and I think that mine is barely visible in the pictures. I think that my downfall with this is that I don't ever go as strong as I should and play it too safe so in future this is definately something that I will work on.
Overall, I really enjoyed creating this makeup look and particuarly loved experiementing with colour. I look forward to improving on the areas that I need to and creating work similar to this using the techniques that I have learnt.
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