Monday, 9 March 2015

Final Design: Independant practise sessions

FACE CHART AND MOODBOARD

This is the moodboard and face chart I created in preparation for my shoot. I included all of my inspiration in order to create my look whilst taking into consideration which products to use.

The mood board I created to show the photographer and model

My Face Chart makeup design


Although I had a basic idea for the hair and makeup, I wanted to be able to practise the look before the day of my shoot to make sure that the hair and makeup worked well together, as well as using the time to overcome any issues whilst establishing time constraints and which products to use.


THE HAIR

For the hair, practising on my doll head proved to be ineffective because the hair was not long enough to do the fish tail plait on. In my hair lesson however, I discussed with Emma how I could incorporate the front of the hair into the fish tail. She suggested adding another plait which then was plaited into the fishtail so in my lesson I practised this on my dolls head.

To practise the whole idea, I asked a friend to come over as she has equally as long hair as my model for the shoot.

Products
-Heated rollers
-Brushes
-Pins and Grips

Health and Safety
-Ensure the work space is tidy and clean
-Ensure all equipment is clean
-Be careful when using heated products near the face and head



 
 
Step by Step: 
-To create this hairstyle, I sectioned the hair with a side parting using the end of a pintail comb and brushed the hair round to one side with a Denman brush.
-I then set the front of the hair in  heated rollers in order to add some volume.
-Once the rollers had cooled, I took them out and backcombed the hair in order to give it some lift.
-I then took a section of hair from the top and began to create a fishtail plait close to the head taking sections from each side as I plaited.
-Once I had plaited down past the ear, I then took the piece of hair I had been braiding and fishtale braided it into the rest of the hair, securing it with a rubber band at the bottom.
-To give the plait a more romantic, less constructed feel, I held the bottom of the plait and gently pulled at some of the sections, making it more loose.
 
After creating this hairstyle, I can honestly say I'm not entirely happy it. The idea in my head was to create a romantic, free look and I don't think that the style I created shows this. To fix this, I think that rather than having the braid in the front, I will add heated rollers for volume and then use a heated tong to curl bits of hair around the face to frame it. I want my model to have 'The girl next door' look to her and I don't think this is something I have achieved yet but I think that will these alterations, I definitely will.
 
Key things I need to remember for the shoot in regards to hair are:
-Ensure there are no trailing hairs that will be caught in the photos
-Ensure to put the rollers towards the back of the head
-Ensure to hold the bottom of the ponytail when pulling out sections of hair
-Take the pintail comb and hairspray with me when going to take the photographs
 
 
THE MAKEUP
 
Practising the makeup allowed me to decide which makeup to use for my design. An exercise that I found useful was printing imagery of the makeup by Pat McGrath and sitting at a table with all my products and deciding which worked best. I found that by doing this myself, it enabled me to establish the right look without wasting the time of the model. As I didn't just want to practise on myself as this is much easier than on someone else, I asked a friend to model my makeup before my shoot so that I could see how well I could create the design on someone else.
 
Products:
-MAC face and body foundations
-Mascara
-Ben Nye eyeshadow palette
-Kryolan liquid liner
-Kryolan false eyelashes
-Duo glue
-Kryolan lip palette
-Translucent powder
-Kryolan blusher palette
 
Health and Safety
-Ensure the work space is tidy and clean
-Ensure all equipment is clean
-Ensure the model has no allergies
 
 
Figuring out which makeup products work best for the design
 
Step by Step
-Cleanse, tone and moisturise.
-Thicken the face and body foundation by mixing it with a spatula, letting the air get to it.
-Apply the foundation to the skin in a light, feathering motion.
-Set lightly with translucent powder using a small blusher brush.
-Using the Kryolan blusher palette, chose the dark brown colour and apply it under the cheekbones using a duo fibre brush
-Using the same palette, apply the highlighter down the bridge of the nose and onto the cheekbone, curving the brush into a C shape near the temple.
-Fill in the eyebrows using an eyeshade from the Ben Nye palette that matches the natural hair colour of the model.
-Apply liquid eyeliner close to the eyelash line and angle it upwards at the end creating a flick.
-Apply MAC mascara to the bottom and top lashes
-Attach the Kryolan eyelashes to the upper eyelashes using duo glue.
-Create a berry lip colour by apply different colours to the lip in layers.
 
 
Practising on another person
 
I think that the makeup I practised worked well but there are a few things that I have changed for the final look. I think that the lipstick colour I created on myself was far too purple for the berry look I was trying to achieve so I changed it for the practise I did on my model which looked a lot better. I also did not like the powder highlighter that I used because the makeup for the Dolce & Gabanna look is more dewy. I decided that a cream highlighter would work a lot better so I used Benefit's high beam instead and then lightly brushed the powder highlighter on top to remove some of the pink tones in the Benefit product. Although my model had some dry skin issues, I was pleased with the makeup and think that it is going to work well with their on the day of my shoot.
 

Final makeup product choice:
 
FOUNDATION: To replicate the dewy look of the D&G trend I chose MAC face and body foundation which was light in application allowing the dewiness to be present.
 
LINER: To create the precision winged eyeliner I chose Kryolan liquid eyeliner because I felt it was the best product to achieve the look. Other products such as MAC blacktrack did not create the same sleek line I wanted for this design.
 
LIP: To duplicate the layered lip effect created my Pat McGrath I used a variety of colours from the Kryolan lip palette on order to achieve this look. 
 
HIGHLIGHT: I used Benefit's high beam for this look because it's cream consistency added to the dewiness I wanted.
 
EYESHADOW: I used the Ben Nye eyeshadow palette for the eyes choosing a light colour for the base and a darker brown in the crease creating definition. I then added Kryolan false lashes to the upper eyes.
 
EYEBROWS: I groomed the brows and filled them in using eyeshadow to ensure they weren't as prominent as the ones from Dolce & Gabbana.
 
CONTOUR: I used a powder contour colour from the Kryolan blush palette to give the cheekbones a defined, bronzed look taking inspiration from the Dolce & Gabbana look.
 
Key things that I need to remember for the shoot in regards to the makeup are:
-Ensure the look appears dewy
-Ensure the lipstick is layered on whilst achieving a balanced lip
-Check the makeup with lightening before making final adjustments
-Ensure the eyeliner is flicked upwards and not outwards

 

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