Monday 9 March 2015

Harper's Bazaar

BACKGROUND

Harper's Bazaar was America's first fashion magazine. It first hit the press in 1867 at a time where Paris dominated the fashion world. Harper's Bazaar was a weekly magazine aimed at the middle and upper class with illustrated pictures of fashion from Germany and France. As well as this the magazine contained information on women's interest subjects such as gardening interior decoration, domestic arts and crafts and etiquette.

The first editor of Harper's Bazaar was Mary Booth. She was the editor of the magazine until her death in 1889. Under her supervision, Harper's Bazaar was a true success, circling over 800,000 people in its first decade. The magazine was made into a monthly magazine in 1901, which is how we know it today and was first sold in the UK in 1913.

In 1933, the recently hired editor in chief, Carmel Snow hired unknown photographer Martin Munkácsi to a beach in Long Island to shoot a swimwear spread. The photographer instructed the model Lucile Brokaw to run towards him whilst he took pictures of her. Although unknown to both Carmel and Marin at the time, it is this photo that would end up making both fashion and photographic history.

The photo in particular was so innovative at the time because before that, photographs of models had always been almost doll like and staged in a studio. This free, impulsive image saw a change in how fashion was portrayed in magazines and helped to make Harper's Bazaar the ultimate success it is today. What is interesting about Martin Munkácsi, is that his final image in Harper's Bazaar before his death showed many similarities to the photo that made his career. It showed a young woman at the beach, wearing a headscarf.



November 1933, Harper's Bazaar's first fashion photograph

July 1962, Martin's last photograph in Harper's Bazaar

Over the years with the help from people such as graphic designer Alexey Brodovitch and fashion legend Diana Vreeland among others, Harper's Bazaar has shaped into one of the worlds most popular fashion magazines. With 31 international editions sold in 54 countries in 21 languages, it is clear to see just how widespread this magazine is and how much it is loved by the public.



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From looking at the latest edition of Harper's Bazaar magazine, it is clear that fashion dominates the advertisements. What is made clear in this magazine is that only the most expensive brands are featured. This tells us a lot about the success of Harper's Bazaar and how a large portion of their profit is made as well as the intended target audience.

What I think separates Harper's Bazaar from other magazine is the high level of advertised fashion featured. Although towards the back of the magazine, near the beauty section, there are some adverts for beauty products and perfumes, primarily the magazine is filled with fashion advertisements only. With an advertisement shown on every other page apart from where the bigger articles are featured, it is clear that the magazine appeals to the consumer. Unlike other magazines that I have studied such as Vogue and Elle, each fashion advertisement has at least a two page spread, with the brands at the front of the magazine covering four pages each.



A Chanel Advertisement spread over four pages, Current Harper's Bazaar Magazine UK

Examples of the brands advertised include Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Michael Kors and Dolce & Gabbana. Each advertisement, either black or white or full of colour are clean and tidy images that draw the attention of the audience. Expected of such luxury brands, no prices are shown with the goods displayed conveying that the audience of the magazine would have disposable incomes and be able to afford the brand.


ARTICLES

Harper's Bazaar is known for its sophisticated design and intelligent writing. This notion is clearly seen from looking through the latest UK edition of the magazine.

Whilst reading some of the articles in the magazine, it is clear that Harper's Bazaar is intended for the more maturer, intelligent woman. Articles featured discuss art, fashion, celebrities and history and unlike other magazines that keep their text minimal, Harper's Bazaar go into great detail, with articles covering four of five pages.

Comparing the latest edition of Harper's Bazaar UK to the latest edition of InStyle UK, the difference in text is clearly shown. An article in InStyle featuring legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld consisted of a few short Q&As whereas an article in Harper's Bazaar featuring British photographer Don McCullin consisted of a detailed Q&A lasting around four pages.


Lengthy, informative articles help to make up Harper's Bazaar Magazine

What separated Harper's Bazaar from other magazines is how knowledgeable and passionate the writers appear and I think this is shown through the articles displayed.

The design layout for the articles throughout the magazine are very organised with sections devoted to certain topics such as beauty and travel. Each article is accompanied with beautiful pictures and detailed text making it appeal to the target audience. The smaller articles, such as the beauty bazaar which features a variety of products is equally as informative with helpful details from experts in the industry.


Design layouts for the magazine are organised and visual

Although there is an article in the magazine about the British Fashion Awards which features pictures of celebrities and an article interviewing actress Margot Robbie, who is also on the cover of the magazine, the general feel of the magazine is that the celebrity culture is not important to Harper Bazaar and it's readers. The articles featuring the celebrities omit a more sophisticated and professional feel with Margot Robbie's interview being a clear example of this.


TARGET AUDIENCE

Harper's Bazaar's official statistics show that the median age of the reader is 48. The statistics also show that more women over the age of 55 buy the magazine than those of a different age. Although these statistics may be correct, there is a lot that the magazine can tell us about the target audience. I have analysed the latest edition of Harper's Bazaar and been able to analyse the intended audience for this magazine.


Audience statistics from Harper's Bazaar Media Kit

The first thing that indicates the target audience of the magazine is the cover. There is no doubt that by viewing the delicate and feminine style of the cover that it is a magazine intended for women. On the cover, there is a free sample attached to the magazine which is in actual fact, an anti aging cream. This small detail is already significant because it indicates that the magazine is aimed at the more maturer woman who perhaps would use anti age creams regularly. The layout of the magazine cover appears very sophisticated with actress Margot Robbie on the cover looking very naturally beautiful.


The free sample on the cover of the magazine tells us a lot about the intended audience

The sub headlines on the page mention legendary actress and fashion icon Lauren Becall which shows that the target audience would be expected to know who she was, thus implying that the audience is of a certain age and of a certain knowledge. As well as this, Balmain is mentioned in a sub headline. Balmain refers to Pierre Balmain, a fashion designer who owns the haute couture fashion house Balmain. This tiny amount of information tells us that the magazine is a fashion magazine and would be aimed at people with both a heavy interest in fashion and also designer labels.

The second thing that indicates the target audience is the advertisement. Unlike other magazines, Harper's Bazaar features only expensive brands in their adverts. This conveys that the target audience would be women with a more disposable income and would not appeal to those of a lower class. Very much like Elle magazine, Harper's Bazaar features adverts for expensive jewellers. An advert portraying a proposal for the expensive jewellery brand Tiffany conveys that the target audience is the maturer women in a stable relationship looking to get married/start a family. This backs up Harper's Bazaars official statistics that state the average woman reader is 48. At 48, stereotypically a large majority of women would already be married so this advert appeals to the younger reader bracket.



A featured Tiffany advert showing a proposal indicates the target audience

The other indication of the target audience is the contents of the magazine. Looking through Harper's Bazaar, it is clear that it is a more sophisticated, grown up magazine. The writing is beautifully written and informative with structured layouts and non cluttered pages. Travel articles show idyllic holiday locations that appeal to the cultured woman whilst indicating the age of the readers. The fashion articles, thick with the latest trends from SS15 convey that the target audience are those passionate about the fashion industry.

My idea of the Harper's Bazaar woman is on of a more maturer age between 40-50. She is passionate about fashion and likes to be informed about the latest trends from around the world. She is a cultured and well travelled woman with an interest in art, travel and books. She is able to easily afford designer clothing and looks to Harper's Bazaar for inspiration. She looks after body and her skin and is well informed with beauty advice thanks to her favourite magazine.


FASHION INFLUENCE

Harper's Bazaar is dominated with fashion influence. The magazine focuses on the latest trends whilst considering the target audience. SS15 trends that are inspired by art and culture are featured in the magazine to appeal to the reader whilst a variety of haute couture labels are advertised throughout. The magazine offers fashion that is almost nostalgic, with 70's blouses and 90's flares being featured, appealing to the target audience whilst being an inspiration from SS15 trends.

Articles featuring fashion accessories are categorised due to colour making it easy for the reader to see how brands offer similar fashion. The general fashion throughout the magazine, although modelled by younger women is sophisticated and elegant with a large variety of  beautiful dresses depicted throughout.

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