Sunday 7 December 2014

London & Milan AW14 trends

London Fashion week: Julien MacDonald AW14
 
One of my favourite makeup trends of the London fashion week was shown at Julien MacDonald. Julien McDonald is an OBE fashion designer from Wales.
 
The theme for Julien MacDonald's collection was gothic architecture with a glamorous twist and this was shown through a variety of stunning, floor length dresses that were heavily embellished with beautiful beads and mosaics. The venue, The Royal Court of Justice, a beautiful building situated in London, was the perfect venue to display these exciting pieces as the building reflected the theme of the fashion.
 
Beautiful pieces from Julien MacDonald.
 
Beautiful pieces from Julien MacDonald
 
The makeup created for this collection was by the makeup artist Val Garland. Val Garland is an English born makeup artist who has worked with people such as Vivienne Westwood, Kate Moss and companies such as Vogue and I-D.
 
To compliment Julien's dress designs, Val Garland decided to make the eyes the focal point of the makeup look. Taking into consideration the gothic feel to the dresses, Val created a cathedral inspired stained glass window effect on the eyes using colours such as gold, teal and mauve to create an imaginative twist on the classic smokey eye. To achieve this eye look, Val used L'Oreal Colour Riche Quad in Midnight which as you can see from the photo are high pigmented and make the eyes pop. For the base of the skin Val used a matte foundation which she then made dewy with the help of glosses on the lips and cheeks. The eyebrows were kept natural in order to keep the eyes the focal point and no mascara or eyeliner was used.
 
Makeup by Val Garland.
 
For the hair, hairstylist James Pecis created a wet look to compliment the dewy makeup and shiny details of the dresses. The hair was wetted with hairspray and L'Oreal mousse then combed backwards and pinned at the sides, leaving a looser textured style on top. This style is reminiscent of the a similar style worn by Jennifer Lawrence at the Bafta awards 2013.
 
I really think that both the hair and makeup compliment the dress designs beautifully in this catwalk show. The edgy, glamorous feel of the dresses are mirrored in the wet hairstyles and dewy, eye catching makeup. I think having the sides of the hair pulled in creates a great shape and works well to establish the eye makeup as the main focal point. As well as this, having the hair pulled back allows the length of the dresses to be a main interest to the audience. Keeping the rest of the makeup soft allows the colours of the dresses to not be overpowered and compliments the eye makeup. The main colours of the dresses that were included in this show were silver, gold, black and gold and they worked well with the similar colours in the L'Oreal eyeshade palette.
 
I think this makeup look will inspired people to experiment more with playing with colours. A smokey eye does not have to be black or brown as Val Garland has shown and if I take anything from this show it's that bold colours can blend together beautifully to create a striking look. One of the main colours of this eye makeup design was blue. I think normally a stigma is placed around wearing blue eye shadow as people worry they cannot pull it off . AW14 has seen a number of shows presenting this bold eye colour. Christian  Dior, Prada, Kenzo and Anna Sui all included a blue eye in their shows so I think that the makeup industry is definitely trying to get rid of this fear.
 
Overall, I really enjoyed Julien MacDonald's AW14 collection and  particularly loved the dress designs. I think the hair, makeup and stylist team worked well to create a noteworthy show.


Moodboard: The makeup for this show was inspired by stained glass windows.

 
 
 
 
Milan fashion week: Gucci AW14
 
A loved makeup look from Milan fashion week was the much loved retro 60's inspired look from Gucci. Frida Giannini, the creative director of Gucci, showcased an array of 60's inspired fashion pieces and this was mirrored with the hair and makeup. 
 
60's inspired pieces from Gucci
 
60's inspired pieces from Gucci
 
The clothes designs from Gucci for AW14 were very much inspired by the 1960's. The focus of this catwalk was centred on daywear and showed a variety of mod inspired clothing. The colours of the pieces ranged from black to pastel pinks and duck egg blues and were teamed with knee high boots in true 60's fashion. Other aspects of the clothes included trouser suits, fur coats and a random pair of boyish jeans. I really loved the above dresses from this collection, in particular the black dress as I think it is versatile and can be dressed up for a classic evening look.
 
Makeup Artist Pat McGrath creates a 60s inspired look.


To compliment this 60's inspired fashion look, international makeup artist Pat McGrath created a makeup look to match, using false lashes to replicate the classic 60's look. Pat kept the eye makeup subtle using a soft brown eye shadow instead of the classic white mod colour in order to subtly suggest the theme of the show. She accentuates the eyes with false lashes on the top and bottom lashes, in true Twiggy style. I love the eyelash look on this particular model because it makes the blue colour of her eyes stand out. Pat has heavily contoured under the cheekbone and kept the lips a lovely, nude colour. Natural brows are in for this look and they appear groomed and lightly filled. The hair accompanying this makeup was down and loose but with volume in the back to suggest a modern take on the 60s hairstyles.
 
 
Hair and Makeup for Gucci AW14
 
I really love this makeup look because I think Pat McGrath has successfully taken the 60s look and made it more modern, as Gucci has done with the clothes. Fake eyelashes were worn across a variety of catwalk shows including Prada and Rochas and I think this will definitely influence retail sales of false eyelashes. As this is a softer look, it is more wearable so is set to be a popular trend. I think the target audience for this look would be those of a younger generation as the look is more fun and youthful than mature. Companies like Eylure London have already caught onto this trend by selling top and bottom eyelash sets which can be used to mirror this look. Also, makeup brands have a variety of nude colours lipsticks which will certainly be a top buy this season. The great thing about this makeup is that because it consists of a natural colour scheme, any outfit can be worn to compliment it.
 
 
Mood board: 60's inspired look.

 
 
 

References

COSMOPOLITAN, (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/beauty-hair/beauty-trends/g3344/hair-makeup-trends-autumn-winter-2014/?slide=14 [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
fashionallure.com, (2014). 1960s MODs. [image] Available at: http://fashionallure.com/style/wp-content/uploads/vintage-mod-sunglasses.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
faversham.org, (n.d.). Stained glass windows. [image] Available at: http://www.faversham.org/upload/images/Glass%20-%20Sheldwich%20Church/stalisfield%20church%20window(1).jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Getthegloss.com, (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.getthegloss.com/media/image/julian-macdonald-aw14.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Lloyd, K. (2014). Welcome To The Church Of Disco! We Go Backstage With Julien Macdonald #1. [online] Grazia Daily. Available at: http://www.graziadaily.co.uk/fashion/news/julien-macdonalds-london-fashion-week-pre-runway-pep-talk-is-our-new-life-mantra [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Porteous, J. (2014). Top 10 hair nd beauty looks AW14. [image] Available at: http://img.hungertv.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/6-518x777.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Style on the couch, (2014). [image] Available at: http://styleonthecouch.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Gucci-AW14-styleonthecouch.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
styleoholic.com, (2013). Twiggy. [image] Available at: http://www.styleoholic.com/wp-content/uploads/how-to-style-twiggy-makeup-1-500x659.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Vischer, A. (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.beautyandthedirt.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/00170h_592x888.jpg [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Vogue UK, (2013). Val Garland: A Life In Make-Up. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/2013/04/08/val-garland-make-up-artist-interview-kate-moss [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
Vogue UK, (2014). Julien Macdonald Autumn/Winter 2014-15 Ready-To-Wear. [online] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/julien-macdonald [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
VOGUE, (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/julien-macdonald/full-length-photos/gallery/1122395 [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
VOGUE, (2014). [image] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/julien-macdonald/full-length-photos/gallery/1122402 [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
VOGUE, (2014). GUCCI AW14. [image] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/gucci/full-length-photos/gallery/1128964 [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 
VOGUE, (2014). GUCCI AW14. [image] Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2014/ready-to-wear/gucci/full-length-photos/gallery/1128945 [Accessed 2 Dec. 2014].
 


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