Smokey Eyes

Smokey Eyes

In this lesson, we learnt how to create a classic Smokey eye.

 

There are many different variations of the Smokey eye as well as different techniques that are used to achieve the desired look. A Smokey eye does not necessarily have to be black. Softer versions can be created using light brown eye shadows as well as other colours. Smokey eyes can also be achieved by using a smoulder pencil. (I love this Mac one) Blending techniques are one of the most important things to consider when creating a Smokey eye.

 

Model: Kasia
Makeup by: Branka Vorkapic

This is a photograph from Branka's demonstration of the Smokey eye. I really like this sultry look and think it looks beautiful on the model Kasia. One of the key things I took from this demonstration was that you had to work fast and neat with the blacktrack otherwise it could prevent the desired look from being achieved.

 

 

Products used:

-MAC blacktrack gel eyeliner

-Naked 2 palette

-Kryolan eye shadow palette

-Derma colour concealer palette

-MAC vanilla pigment

-MAC concealer palette

-Kryolan Ultra foundations

-MAC translucent powder

-MAC reflex gold glitter

-MAC shine mixing medium

 

Health and Safety

-Ensure the workspace is clean and tidy

-Ensure the kit and brushes are clean

-Ensure the model is at the correct height

-Ensure the glitter is of a cosmetic grade

 

 

Step by Step

-Cleanse, tone and moisturise the model.

-Apply black track to the eyelid, no higher than the crease, ensure an even application is applied and lift the brow to blend the product and soften the initial line.

-Press black eye shadow from the Naked 2 palette on top of the gel liner into the crease and blend out using a blending brush. 

-Apply beige eye shadow from the Kryolan palette under the brows and blend downwards.

-Create a cappuccino colour using the Kryolan palette and blend above the crease of the eye.

-Create a coffee brown colour using the Kryolan palette and blend onto the crease into the cappuccino colour and black. This will soften the eye shadow and stop the black eye shadow from looking so harsh.
-Apply black track onto the water line using a small angled brush. Set it with black eye shadow if the models eye is sticking or uncomfortable.
-Apply MAC concealer where needed, in particular look at the eye area. Get the model to look down and look in the mirror for any shadows that need concealing. (For my model, I used the peach tone to conceal the grey under her eyes)
-Match the models foundation using the Kryolan Ultra foundations and apply evenly to the skin, making sure to feather it on leaving no streaks.
-Use the derma colour palette to create a colour that matches the natural hair colour. Using a flat brush, apply the colour to the eyebrows and use a spooley to blend in.
-Apply an eye shadow from the Kryolan eye shadow palette that matched the derma colour to the eyebrows. (This sets them)
-Use a light concealer under the eyebrows to define them, then use a natural colour on top (I used foxy from the Naked 2 palette)
-Contour the face under the cheek bone, side of the head and chin using a liquid foundation two shades darker than the foundation.
-Set the makeup using MAC translucent powder
-Using minimal product, apply black shadow under the eye lid, joining it from the outer corner to the middle corner. Make sure this is soft and that the black eye shadow does not drop on the clients face.
-Take the MAC vanilla pigment and apply it under the brow and in the inner corner of the eye
-Create a crème blush using the Kryolan lip palette, use your ring finger to apply it to the apples of the cheeks.
-Add more vanilla pigment to the cheek bone.
-Create a neutral lip colour using the Kryolan lip palette and apply it to the lips.
-Blot any excess lipstick onto a tissue.

Model: Chloe
Fig.1. Facing problems

Model: Chloe
Fig. 2. Overcoming problems

Evaluation:

 

What went well:

I really enjoyed creating this look. I was happy with the foundation base and even more happier with the eyebrows. I have never used derma colour for eyebrows before and thought that it worked extremely well. I think that one of the most valuable things I have learnt so far on this course, is how versatile makeup products can be. In this look especially, I used a concealer palette for the eyebrows, and lipsticks to create a blush which is something that admittedly, I would have never thought of before. I think that I used the right colour for the models natural hair and skin colour and was very pleased with the outcome. I was pleased with the overall Smokey eye I created but I think that it is something that does take a lot of practise to get right. I think the shape of the makeup looked good and I was pleased at how easy I found it to apply the gel eyeliner to the waterline without causing any discomfort to the model.

 

Problems I faced/overcome:

During this look, there were some problems that I was faced with. For starters, the MAC blacktrack gel eyeliner is very drying so it has to be applied quickly. As I was trying to get an even application, the product dried and I found it difficult to blend the edges. (Fig.1) To fix this, I applied a coffee colour on the edges with a blending blush and blended to try and soften it. It worked well and after I had applied the other eye shadows I think it turned out okay although I did have a dark patch in the corner of the eye that needed to be corrected. (Fig. 2) One of the other problems I faced when creating this makeup was that for this look, I had to work with a partner who worked on the other side of the face. In the makeup industry it is common that you would work with other people so I had to make sure that both sides of the face matched which was quite difficult to do when I was trying to concentrate on my side.

Overall, I was happy with the way this look turned out and now know what I need to do to improve for next time. I really enjoyed using different products for this look and thought that blacktrack really worked well as a base for the makeup.

 

 

  Look Change:

For a more glamorous evening look, Branka added to the look previously created. She told us that often when working in the industry, you would need to change the makeup quickly to make it look different and this is something that we could do to improvise quickly.

Model: Kasia
Makeup by: Branka Vorkapic

 

Step by Step

-Mix a tiny amount of MAC shine mixing medium with MAC reflex gold glitter. (Be sure the glitter is of a cosmetic grade)

-Apply the glitter to the lid using an eye shadow blending brush and use a dabbing motion to press on the glitter.

-Create a plum coloured lipstick using the Kryolan lip palette and apply to the models lips.

-Blot an excess lipstick onto a tissue.



Model: Chloe
Makeup Artist for right side: Bjorn Daniels
 

Model: Chloe
Fig. 3.

 

Evaluation:

 

 I really loved this look change and enjoyed using the glitter on the eyelids. Although initially I was pleased with the glitter application, after a minute or so the black eye shadow began to crease. This is because I used too much mixing medium so next time I recreate this look I will use a lot less when mixing with the glitter. I wasn't entirely happy with my lip application as I felt that a stronger colour with a deeper purple undertone in it would have looked better. I wasn't entirely happy with the lip shape either as I accidently went out the natural lip line on the bottom left (fig.3.) so this is something that I know I need to practise. Overall, I really enjoyed taking the original makeup and making it stronger and will be purchasing some mixing medium in the near future to practise glitter application.